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Anyone who eats anything, ever, should buy this curiously hybrid book

Part autobiography, part farm-narrative, part eco-analysis, part recipe omnibus, this is a book that should not work. Yet its curious hybrid genre is unified and exalted by the engaging, intelligent prose, evocative images and the fact that it’s really a book about relationships.

The Ethical Omnivore illuminates the farmer-animal relationship:

The Ethical Omnivore illuminates the farmer-animal relationship:

There are the personal relationships, of course – between the two of them, with their cumulative community of loyal customers (“we’ve seen their children born, and the second children,” says Dalrymple), their committed team of artisan-butchers and their holistic and regenerative farmers. The book also illuminates the farmer-animal relationship: the respect, and the slaughter.

“Looking the Animal in the Eye” is the killing chapter. It’s confronting but it’s important. You know the saying, “you shouldn’t eat anything you wouldn’t be prepared to kill.” For most of us, including most farmers, that’s impossible. Indeed, the industrialisation of animal slaughter and the shrinkage and consolidation of that industry is one of the issues examined here because it renders the act opaque.

This chapter offers an accessible equivalent. On one couple’s on-farm abattoir, we step through the porcine progress from happy pig life to stress-free pig death. It’s something every meat-eater should read, unflinchingly real at a time when reality threatens to drift entirely from our grasp.

Underlying all that, though, and woven throughout the book, are the bigger, deeper relationships – between food and dirt, bugs and soil, soil health and gut health, meat and human, and between efficiency, capitalism and disease.

It’s interesting that although farmers and ag-vets have for years understood the relationship between nutrition and disease – South Australian vet Pat Coleby wrote, decades ago, about curing certain goat cancers with nutritional supplements – we presume, regarding the nutritional value of our own food, that meat is meat, strawberries are strawberries.

We presume meat is meat but the healthier the animal the more satisfied you will be eating its meat.

We presume meat is meat but the healthier the animal the more satisfied you will be eating its meat.Credit:Louie Douvis

Not so. A factor here is deliciousness. “Genuine deliciousness is predetermined,” argue Dalrymple and Hilliard. “If you’re eating meat from a healthy animal you’ll find yourself satiated with less.” Recent studies have linked the degree of food intervention with obesity, and perhaps this is why. Satiation is about nutritional content.

As industrial farming reduces both soil microbes and crop diversity, and industrial food processes replace genuine nutrients with e-numbers, there’s not enough to push your stop button. This suits the industry, which profits from our over-consumption. But it burdens our bodies and our health system with the diseases and scleroses of excess.

Hence, the slightly counterintuitive return of clean animal fats to the good food side – and hence the book’s mouthwatering recipe for rosemary pork-fat butter. Other surprises include the fact that methane, although more warming-inducive than CO2, is hugely less enduring – breaking down naturally after 12 years, says a recent Oxford-based study, as opposed to the millennia for which CO2 accumulates. Also, who knew rice was a big producer of methane?

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Plus there’s this. Everyone thinks hard hoofs have destroyed Australian soils. But that’s a management thing. What hoofed herbivores beautifully do is return nutrients to soil as poo and wee and trample it in. Lentils don’t do that. Cropped soil, therefore, slowly depletes, becoming dependent on (usually chemical) fertilisers. The ruminant, turning grass into protein and back into soil, is one of nature’s miracles.

Fifteen years ago, Dalrymple was a graphic artist and Hilliard was an aspiring filmmaker-cum- sommelier. Acting on intuition as much as anything, they leapt into the unknown of conscious carnivory, seeking out soil-regenerative farmers, visiting each farm, meeting the beasts, encouraging total transparency, sidestepping the food-labelling fiasco and committing to use every animal part, nose to tail. “In nature there’s no waste,” says Dalrymple. Hence the chapter, “The Whole Animal and Nothing But the Animal”. They’re a bit the same with truth.

“Every time we buy something,” the authors note, “we vote for the system that produced it.” My advice? Buy this book. Vote. Anyone who eats anything, ever – including breatharians – should buy it, read it and shove it in every Christmas stocking you can find.

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